How To Choose Patterns

If you have already been through the process of choosing a character, and assuming you will be constructing your own costume, it is now time to choose patterns and fabrics.

How to Choose Patterns

1. Gather reference images of your character. This can often be done through internet searches or, if you have a great memory, watching a show.
   

2. Make a list of the necessary pieces for a costume. For example, in Ouran High School Host Club the pieces considered when choosing patterns include

• Button up shirt
• Jacket
• Tie
• Pants
• Shoes

3. Look through patterns, either online or in stores. Common pattern makers include
• Simplicity
• Vogue
• McCall’s
• Butterick

Figure 1 - A screenshot of the same jacket from multiple angles.¹

4. Choose a pattern that resembles your individual pieces as closely as possible. Don’t be afraid to pick and choose from different patterns. If you like a coat from one suit pattern and the pants from another, then buy both and use the pieces you need. Figures 1 and 2 shows an example of a jacket pattern that works well for a costume, but more patterns are still needed for the shirts and pants.

Figure 2 - A McCall's Pattern with many similar features, but one less button, than the characters' jackets. Note that the back view gives a better comparison to a manga page.

How to Choose Fabrics

1.   Think about the types of clothing your character is wearing. Choose fabrics that would match the real life equivalents. For example, a light suiting material would fit the Ouran character’s outfit because they are wearing suits.

2.   Go to a local craft store and hunt for the types of fabrics you want. Then another, and another, until you find exactly what you are looking for. Occasionally, it may be necessary to make some adjustments because perhaps suiting fabrics don’t come in the perfect light blue. Decide where these adjustments are necessary and go with it.

3.   Decide how much fabric to buy. Typically, allow for some extra fabric for the event of messing some fabric up during the creation process. The back of the pattern will tell you how much fabric to buy and it can be a good idea to add at least a foot to that measurement for mistakes. I typically add an extra yard and then usually end up with extras for future costumes.

4.   You’re now ready to cut out the patterns and fabric and begin sewing the actual costume. Don't forget fabrics, such as interfacing and linings, that patterns call for but aren’t visible from the outside. They can make a big difference in how the pattern turns out.

Resources

1. Hatori, B., Leach, G., & Yagi, K. (2005). Ouran High School Host Club (Shojo Beat Manga ed.). San Francisco, CA: Viz Media, LLC.